Welcome to the writings of David Lawrason, one of Canada’s leading independent wine journalists and educators. This site presents news and comment related to events, tastings and wine travel. To track current wine reviews and articles see the sidebar on this page.

Hemispheres Wine Club Launches in Canada
Posted June 28
Australian Marcus Ansems previously made wine in Ontario (Creekside) and B.C. (Therapy). He has now established Hemispheres, a retail wine club operating for the moment in B.C., Alberta and Ontario. The idea is that Marcus and partner Rachel Ansems will travel to different regions (and hemispheres) to assemble wines that will be offered to members (packages range from four to twelve cases per year). I am all in favour of those willing to sell outside the monopoly box, and would recommend this project based on Ansem’s record. But they have their work cut out for them.  I have tasted four of the initial offerings, all hailing from McLaren Vale in South Australia.  I highly recommend three of four. Wish the Samuel George 2005 Grenache was not vinegar-plagued (2 bottles tasted), but after that all is rosy.  The Ekhidna (She-Viper) 2008 Shiraz Rosé (89 pts) is surprisingly charming, rich and friendly (for a viper).  Grant Burge 2004 Nebuchadnezzar Barossa Shiraz Cabernet is a solid, 90pt example with lifted aromatics and a firm, savoury palate. Paper Eagle 2007 Linchpin Shiraz (93 pts) is very fine, and refined, with satiny texture that delivers blackcurrant, menthol and tobacco flavours with seamless elegance – no heat at all!  For more information and membership plans go to www.hemisphereswine.ca.  Next offering this summer is from New Zealand.

B.C. Tastings
Posted June 28
Recently, prominent B.C. wineries have submitted new releases for review. Quails’ Gate 2008 Chenin Blanc (89pts) is terrific, maintaining  its reputation as Canada’s best with this varietal. Quails’ Gate 2007 Pinot Noir (87 pts) is a bit lean and abrasive but crammed with cranberry fruit. The QG 07 Chardonnay (83pts) is way too resinous and oaky at this stage.  In Ontario Quail’s Gate is repped by Hobbs and Co Wines at www.hobbswine.com where the chenin is listed as currently available at $20. Joie Farm’s 2008 whites (Unoaked Chardonnay, Noble Blend and Riesling) are all in the family in the 85-86pt range - soft, demure and pleasant but lacking some vitality.  The fruit intensity and definition needs to be ratcheted higher. The Joie Farm 2008 Rose however is pink jolt (89pts). Tinhorn Creek’s 2008 whites are not at all ready for prime time. All under screw-cap, these are difficult and varietally confused wines that should be re-tasted after a few weeks. Best of the bunch is The Olfield Series 2007 2Bench White (87 pts) that blends semillon, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, viognier and muscat..

Vintages June 20 Release
June 18
This is a really interesting release with many 90 point and over wines. There is yet another tranche of ever popular Argentine malbecs, and I draw your attention to Susana Balbo, who I place among the best winemakers of Argentina. Then there are the excellent 2005 Bordeaux. This vintage is very strong, so if you have shied away from the idiocy of Bordeaux pricing in recent years you might want to dip your toe into this pool, all rating 88 to 93 points. I found most of the New World reds to be very good but with few standouts or astounding values, except for the return of the Porcupine Ridge Syrah from South Africa, and the very impressive Ojai Syrah from California.  One of the pleasant little surprises is the demure Swiss red from Cave De La Côte Morges (what better red for a summer eve?). Among whites I loved the underpriced Stags' Leap Winery Chardonnay from California and the sensational Schloss Gobelsburg Steinsetz Grüner Veltliner from Austria. The Ontario VQA selection has several very good wines, but only one excellent wine, the exciting Hidden Bench 2006 Terroir Cachet, a Bordeaux blend from the undersung little vintage that could. For reviews on virtually of the wines go to www.winealign.com.

Tscharke’s Aussie Alternatives
Posted June 13
Young Australian winemaker Damian Tscharke (pronounced sharkee) poured his portfolio for Toronto sommeliers recently, and the buzz was about his off-beat varietals like albarino, montepulciano, tempranillo and zinfandel. Tscarhke is from a six generation grape growing family in the Barossa Valley, graduating from viticultural sciences  in 2000.  With the family grapes being sold to neighbours like Rockford, Penfolds and Peter Lehmann, he was anxious to try his own hand as a winemaker, but in a world inundated with shiraz and cab he latched on to something new. Read more at  newsandreviews.

Louis Latour Has Branched Out
Posted June 10
A tasting with Mark Allen, export manager for the venerable Burgundy house of Louis Latour, showcased recent acquisitions well beyond the company’s HQ at the base of the famous hill of Corton.  They purchased Chablis’ Simmonet-Febvre in 2005 and Beaujolais’ Henry Fessy in 2008. They have also recently appointed Mark Anthony Brands as their national agent in Canada, which is charged with handling private order and consignment sales, and boosting Louis Latour’s presence in the LCBO and Vintages.  Struck by the Fessy Regnie, Louis Latour Marsannay and great value Louis Latour 2006 Ardeche Chardonnay. Read more at  newsandreviews.

Grange of PEC Launches Grange of PEC
Posted June 7
On its 5^th anniversary the largest, bellwether winery of Prince Edward County has launched its first, premium priced namesake wines. Until now the Grange has marketed under Trumpour’s Mill, named for the County’s first mill site on a stream flowing through the Hillier property. Now there are three Grange of Prince Edward varietals added to the range, all from individual estate blocks and maturing vines, from the excellent 2007 vintage. And they are priced, like other County premiums, over $30. Psst, they will sell out quickly because they are landmarks, they are very good and quantities are small. Read more at  newsandreviews.

Picks from Vintages Shop On Line & Classics
Posted May 29
In a rare opportunity, Toronto wine media were invited to taste a smattering of Vintages Shop OnLine from the June 10^th release, and Classics Catalogue May 26^th releases in celebration of the official opening of the LCBOs tasting lab – officially called the Quality Assurance Tasting Facility. The spacious, well lit and wireless fitted lab at LCBO HQ replaces the shoebox I have called home for almost 20 years while tasting new LCBO releases. Won’t miss it a bit!  For reviews on Two Hands from Australia, Heitz Napa Cabernet, the season's best rose, and a terrific find from Majorca, Spain - plus others - go to newsandreviews.

Prince Edward County’s “Terroir"
Posted May 18
A few notes, observations and wine highlights from the Prince Edward County Winegrowers Association annual spring Terroir tasting at Picton's Crystal Palace on May 16.  Go to newsandreviews.

Notes from Dinner with Wolf Blass
Posted May 15
Australia’s Wolf Blass is on a cross-Canada 75^th Birthday tour promoting an upcoming biography (not yet read).  Here are some interesting items from a small media tasting and dinner held at Toronto’s Turf Lounge, which as part of Woodbine Entertainment is also an off-track betting facility frequented by Bay Streeters looking for a different way to make and lose a fast buck. On Canada AM next day Wolf Blass laid out his five rules of business success, one being “if you try to make a fast buck, you’ll lose it just as quickly”. He was betting lightly this night and didn’t win. He loves horses and is involved in the business in Australia. He is also an avid skier. Continued at newsandreviews, including discussion on screwcaps, global oversupply and wines tasted that evening.

Five Rows Craft Winery
Posted May 12, 2009
Fifth generation grape grower Wes Lowrey still sells most of the fruit from his large St. Davids Bench vineyard in Niagara. But the itch to make his own wine struck in 2001 while standing among five rows of pinot noir.  His grapes had already received acclaim in pinots made by Inniskillin and Creekside. The first vintage in 2004 was made in miniscule quantities and sold to a handful of restaurants.  The current releases, still in tiny quantities, are very good indeed.  I have only tasted three wines to date but the 2007 Sauvignon Blanc ($25.00. 91 points) is very, very fine. Fermented in old French oak it has an impeccably smooth, creamy texture. The nose is ripe, fresh, light spicy and semi-tropical (I thought immediately of Cloudy Bay) with lemon-lime, green melon and vaguely minty notes. The 2007 Pinot Gris ($25, 88pts) is mellow, mild, and richly textured with fruit aromas in the realm of green fig, green banana and ripe pear.  It's full bodied, very smooth and satiny on the palate with a warm sweet ambiance. The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon is also very good. Go to http://fiverows.com.

Le Clos Jordanne’s Blind Triumph
Posted May 8
A page 3 Globe and Mail story has given wide publicity to a Montreal blind tasting held last January in which Le Clos Jordanne 2005 Claystone Terrace Chardonnay trumped 12 other chardonnays from Burgundy and California. Marc Chapleau, editor of the SAQs Cellier magazine, who designed the tasting is dubbing it the Judgement of Montreal. The wine is terrific and the win is well deserved and may finally bring due national recognition to Le Clos Jordanne in particular and Niagara chardonnay in general. Marc Chapleau deserves thanks for putting Claystone into the line-up as a ringer, and for publicizing the result.  That the Montreal wine media only now seems to have discovered Niagara chardonnay speaks more about their lack of exposure and/or interest, not that the wine has suddenly arrived. Niagara chardonnay has been beating Burgundy and California in Ontario-held blind tastings for years.

 

Jura Wines Come Knocking
Posted May 3
I can’t think of a more daunting marketing challenge than introducing the unknown, idiosyncratic, anachronistic (jura-ssic?) wines of Jura into Canada during a recession. But maybe that idiosyncrasy is exactly what will open the door in a world inundated with monochromatically bright and clean international wines.  As the very old becomes the new new. The 19 producers on the toe-in-the-water junket to Toronto and Montreal in April can only hope that a few daring sommeliers and rogue LCBO buyers come to their aid. I left with the impression that the foray was a desperate bid to stave off extinction.  If not, why have they not been here before in the 25 years that I have been attending trade tastings in Toronto. Continued at newsandreviews.

Osoyoos-Larose 2005 Comes to Vintages
Posted Feb 28
please go to newsandreviews.

Prince Edward County Wine Reviews
Reviews on a few recently tasted County wines have been added to our News and Reviews section at newsandreviews. The list will be updated continually as others are tasted.  Most recently tasted on Dec 11: Picard & McLaurin 2006 Pinot Noir, Belle Vigne 2007 Leon Millot Foch, Black Prince 2007 Cabernet Franc Reserve.

Chile Goes Cool Climate
For an overview on the state of Chilean wine today, new regions and a more detailed look at Chile's sauvignons, pinots and syrahs, please go to newsandreviews.

Thirty Bench Rises to the Top.  Go to newsandreviews.

B.C.'s Mission Hill Launches Perpetua and Quatrain. Go to newsandreviews.

Le Clos Jordanne Previews 2006s. Go to newsandreviews.

Wine Guru Website Sells Consignment Wines
A website called Wine Guru has been launched by Neil Fortes to provide one-stop on-line shopping for wines only available through the LCBO's Consignment Warehouse program in Ontario. Fortes has sold his wine importing agency called Wineworld to focus on this project, that will offer a growing selection of international wines, by the case only. The portfolio is assembled from several importers. Go to wineguru.ca.

SLM Events Management
Sandy Molnar of SLM Events Management is helping administer courses, seminars, wine country tours and special events. Sandy and David have worked together on previous Toronto Life events, the Sante Wine Festival and Tours of Niagara. Please feel free to contact Sandy with any inquiries about our events and her other services at www.slmevents.ca.